BACKGROUND

According to ^{Naranjo (2019}), every year the textile industry generates a large amount of waste and fabric scraps, most of which, especially the smaller ones, are thrown away instead of being sold or reused. In Colombia, for instance, over 15,000 tons of textile scraps are wasted annually, which negatively impacts the environment. Therefore, there is a need to find ways to make use of this fabric waste and give it a second life.

Generally, the excess fabric generated during the marking and then the cutting process is often stockpiled for the manufacture of low-value products with a short lifespan, not profitable for textile companies (^{Gómez et al., 2019}).

The marking process is the stage where the pattern pieces are laid out on top of the production fabric to be cut in such a way that they occupy the least amount of space (^{Pumasunta, 2018}). Using textile waste can create unique visual effects, where colors, textures, and shapes are mixed to create new garments or accessories (^{Villalba, 2019}). This approach can provide a fresh perspective to the textile industry. Textile companies need to take advantage of the creative potential of their employees to generate new ideas and apply them to product and service creation (^{Ortiz, 2020}). Additionally, textile companies should adopt sustainable practices as part of their production process to significantly reduce textile waste generation (^{Guerrón, 2019}).

Industrial patternmaking often leaves a lot of negative space between patterns. This happens because patterns are designed to fit the human body, and the pieces do not always fit perfectly. The process of industrial patternmaking involves parallel lines, radial lines, single-curved surfaces, double-curved surfaces, and warped surfaces (^{Guamán et al., 2020}). Due to the rise of industrialization and globalization, textile processes have been streamlined to save resources, reduce time, and increase profitability. Technical expertise is essential in patternmaking to ensure that the marking process is carried out properly, and the appropriate patterns are drawn up (^{Villa, 2020}). Before beginning the cutting process, it is crucial to verify that the pieces that will make up the garments are the correct ones to avoid wasting fabric (^{Gómez, 2019}). To achieve streamlined processes, it is important to conduct an inspection in which quality criteria are given priority. This inspection will help reduce the costs associated with reprocessing, defective units, and fabric waste (^{Arce & Yépez, 2020}).

According to ^{Sifuentes (2019}), using a technical sheet can provide valuable information on costs, waste, maintenance, and losses. These sheets include details on the design, fabric and inputs, pattern and cutting, production, garment measurements, additional processes, and finishing processes. ^{Sánchez and Quea (2020}) suggest that various tools, such as VSM, Lean, 5S, Linear Programming, and Redutex, can be used for the preparation of technical sheets. They also propose creating awareness and a culture of no waste, implementing 6S, and encouraging and maintaining change and continuous improvement to reduce waste. ^{Ramírez (2020}) notes that some textile companies still use artisanal production processes which result in disorganization, machine failures, lack of training programs, and inadequate use of raw materials, inputs, and equipment. This leads to waste being produced due to the inappropriate use of resources.

On the other hand, some textile companies lack standardized processes, or in other words, they do not follow the appropriate procedures, which leads to delays in product delivery, customer complaints, discomfort, and increased waste in the cutting process (^{Gutiérrez & Vega, 2019}). Applying visual management techniques can improve the quality, reliability, and productivity of textile products while also reducing costs due to waste reduction (^{Gallardo, 2019}). To achieve this, patterns should be created with seam allowances incorporated and all the necessary specifications included to simplify production processes (^{Lavado, 2018}).

Textile and Apparel Manufacturing Process

The textile manufacturing process begins in the coastal valleys with the production of raw cotton. This process includes cotton ginning, spinning, weaving domestic and imported cotton fiber, and dyeing and finishing processes (Figure 2).

The apparel manufacturing process consists of four procedures: design, pre-sewing, sewing, and finishing (Figure 3).

Design

According to ^{Schultz (2017}), the design process involves creating garment designs based on fashion trends or tendencies. Designs can also be provided by clients with the specific specifications they want. It is important to note that these designs should be approved by customers.

^{Paredes (2018}) outlines the four phases of any design process:

Phase one involves observing and analyzing the environment to determine human needs. In phase two, those needs are analyzed by the company and reinforced. In phase three, a solution is planned and sought, with an emphasis on satisfying the needs or requirements. Mock-ups, molds, patterns, and blueprints are used in this phase to find favorable opportunities. Finally, in phase four, the original idea is constructed and implemented using materials for product development.

These actions occur continuously, depending on the design procedure and requirements.

Pre-Sewing

The pre-sewing process, according to ^{Schultz (2017}), involves marking and cutting the fabric based on patterns. To start, the fabric is spread and patterns are placed on it. Next, the contour of the patterns is traced onto the fabric with chalk. Finally, the marked fabric is cut into pattern pieces, which will be used for sewing.

Pattern making, as explained by ^{Paredes (2018}), entails creating a set of lines or stripes based on statistical data on body proportions and compositions. These standard measurements are used to create patterns of various sizes. In other words, pattern making involves creating basic patterns or molds for garments from measurements taken from a diverse group of subjects, resulting in standard measurements that can be used to make different sizes of clothes.

According to ^{Vélez et al. (1996}), there are three types of patterns: basic pattern, block pattern, and sample pattern.

The basic pattern is the type of pattern that remains unchanged by fashion trends. It is important to know how to work with this pattern and to master it.

The block pattern is the foundation pattern that has been modified according to standardized design specifications. It is important to check for any possible errors.

The sample pattern is the approved pattern with all the modifications.

Size is a standardized representation of measurements used to identify the size of garments. These measurements are directly related to the anatomy of the person wearing the garment, which is explained in size charts.

According to ^{Pumasunta, 2018}, the marker making process involves fitting all of the garment patterns into the smallest place possible on the fabric that will be cut. This process can be manual or digital. In manual marker making, the patterns are placed on the fabric according to each pattern grain line to save material. The patterns are then marked on the fabric and cut. On the other hand, in digital marker making, the garment patterns are placed in a software where the layout is developed on a rectangular form that has the measurements of the fabric in terms of width and length set. The assigned worker arranges the patterns using a mouse and the location of the patterns is displayed on the computer screen. Finally, after improving the marker, the pattern is printed using a plotter.

In order to make the best use of the material in the marker making process, it is essential to consider certain quality specifications as stated by Barretto (2013), as cited in ^{Pumasunta, (2018}). These specifications are:

Likewise, Barretto (2013), as cited in ^{Pumasunta (2018}), suggests that the marker subprocess can be divided into three subprocesses based on the type of spreading, sizes, and models. Concerning the type of spreading, there are face-to-face, where the marker goes face-to-face with the fabric, and nap one-way, where the marker is placed on the right side of the fabric and can go up or down. Concerning the sizes, it is considered whether the marker includes one or several sizes of the same model. Concerning the model, it is considered whether the marker includes one or several models.

There are two methods to calculate marker efficiency. The first method, called percentage utilization, shows that there is a relationship between utilization and waste. Percentage utilization refers to the area used while waste refers to the area not used. It is recommended that the fabric utilization should be 90% and waste should be 10%. The waste generally includes areas like edges, curves, and areas where it is tough to arrange patterns properly, making them unusable for garment assembly. To calculate this, you need to know the area of the patterns and the area of the marker (Barretto, 2013, as cited in ^{Pumasunta, 2018}).

The second method is the measurement per garment, which calculates the average amount of material required to produce a garment by dividing the length of the marker plan by the number of patterns marked. It is important to note that this method is indifferent to the fabric’s length or width, unlike the percentage utilization method (Barretto, 2013, as cited in ^{Pumasunta, 2018}).

The percentage utilization method is the most commonly used and efficient one in the textile sector. It calculates the amount of material required based on the percentage of the fabric used in the marker plan. On the other hand, the measurement per garment method is useful for accounting purposes, such as tracking direct materials and raw materials and calculating costs.

Sewing

The sewing process involves assembling the fabric pieces that were delivered during the pre-sewing stage (Figure 4). This process leads to the creation of the final garment, which is achieved after the finishing process (^{Schultz, 2017}).

To create the desired garment, fabric pieces are joined together using a sewing machine. Sometimes, the pieces are joined together preliminary to make the process easier (^{Pumasunta, 2018}). Similarly, ^{Fonseca (2020}) suggests pinning or basting the pieces together before sewing, after which the garment should be checked to determine if any modifications are needed before sewing permanent stitches with the sewing machine.

According to ^{Chozo and Escriba (2019}), sewing involves assembling the cut pieces as per the design to obtain a complete garment through a succession of operations using sewing machines. A traditional garment usually consists of a front bodice, back bodice, sleeves, and collar, but this may vary depending on the model.

Finishing

Finishing is the final stage of apparel manufacturing, which involves a range of complementary processes necessary for garments, such as embroidery, printing, dyeing, or any other finishing required by the customer (^{Schultz, 2017}).

^{Pumasunta (2018}) explains that the finishing process takes place after the sewing process when the assembled garment is ready for delivery. This process includes color assignment, labeling, thread cutting, button attaching, and packaging, among others. The ultimate goal of this process is to ensure that the customer receives a product that is of the highest quality. ^{Fonseca (2020}) adds that before cutting excess threads, ironing, and labeling, the garments go through a series of physical tests to ensure that they meet required standards.

Descriptive Analysis

The collected survey data was analyzed using descriptive methods. The data was coded, tabulated, and then sorted by dimensions. Statistical analysis was performed using the SPSS software, and frequency tables and figures were prepared with their respective interpretations.

The marking and cutting processes variable was evaluated as a percentage, considering the scales “inadequate”, “slightly adequate”, and “adequate”. Subsequently, data was organized to evaluate the marking process and cutting process dimensions in percentage terms, considering the same scales.

Table 3 and Figure 5 illustrate the behavior of the sample concerning the marking and cutting processes variable. Forty-one point nine percent (41.9%) of the operators stated that the marking and cutting processes are “inadequate”, 39.5% stated that they are “slightly adequate”, and 18.6% stated that they are “adequate”. Therefore, marking and cutting operators of textile companies located in the districts of North Lima believe that the marking and cutting processes are “inadequate”.

Table 4 and Figure 6 illustrate the behavior of the sample concerning the marking process dimension. Forty-one point nine percent (41.9%) of the operators stated that the marking process is “slightly adequate”, 39.5% stated that it is “inadequate”, and 18.6% stated that it is “adequate”. Therefore, marking and cutting operators of textile companies located in the districts of North Lima believe that the marking process is “slightly”.

Table 5 and Figure 7 illustrate the behavior of the sample concerning the cutting process dimension. Sixty-two point eight percent (62.8%) of the operators stated that the cutting process is “inadequate”, 18.6% stated that it is “slightly adequate”, and 18.6% stated that it is “adequate”. Therefore, marking and cutting operators of textile companies located in the districts of North Lima believe that the cutting process is “inadequate”.

On the other hand, the excess fabric variable was evaluated as a percentage, considering the scales “inadequate”, “slightly adequate”, and “adequate”. Subsequently, data was organized in percentage terms to evaluate the utilization of seasonal fabric and the amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process dimensions, considering the scales “high”, “regular”, and “low”.

Table 6 and Figure 8 illustrate the behavior of the sample concerning the excess fabric dimension. Forty-four point two percent (44.2%) of the operators stated that the excess fabric produced is “high”, 37.2% stated that it is “regular”, and 18.6% stated that it is “low”. Therefore, marking and cutting operators of textile companies located in the districts of North Lima believe that the excess fabric produced is “high”.

Table 7 and Figure 9 illustrate the behavior of the sample concerning the utilization of seasonal fabric dimension. Forty-six point five percent (46.5%) of the operators stated that the utilization of seasonal fabric is “high”, 32.6% stated that it is “low”, and 20.9% stated that it is “regular”. Therefore, marking and cutting operators of textile companies located in the districts of North Lima believe that the utilization of season fabric is “high”.

Table 8 and Figure 10 illustrate the behavior of the sample concerning the amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process dimension. Forty-eight point eight percent (48.8%) of the operators stated that the amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process is “high”, 32.6% stated that it is “regular”, and 18.6% stated that it is “low”. Therefore, marking and cutting operators of textile companies located in the districts of North Lima believe that the amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process is “high”.

Subsequently, three contingency tables were prepared to show the relationship between the variables. The first table shows the relationship between the variables marking and cutting processes and excess fabric. The second table shows the relationship between the variable marking and cutting processes and the dimension utilization of seasonal fabric. Finally, the third table shows the relationship between the variable marking and cutting processes and the amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process dimension. All contingency tables were prepared considering the values of each of the variables and the results of their corresponding scales.

From the data presented in Table 9 and Figure 11, three conclusions were drawn. First, it was observed that 32.6% of the operators reported that the marking and cutting processes were “inadequate”, which also resulted in a “high” excess fabric production. Second, it was observed that 27.9% of the operators stated that the marking and cutting processes were “Slightly Adequate”, which resulted in “regular” excess fabric production. Third, it was observed that 18.6% of the operators stated that the marking and cutting processes were “adequate”, which resulted in a “low” excess fabric production.

From the data presented in Table 10 and Figure 12, three conclusions were drawn. First, it was observed that 32.6% of the operators reported that the marking and cutting processes were “inadequate”, which also resulted in “high” utilization of seasonal fabric. Second, it was observed that 11.6% of the operators stated that the marking and cutting processes were “slightly adequate”, which resulted in “regular” utilization of seasonal fabric. Third, it was observed that 18.6% of the operators stated that the marking and cutting processes were “adequate”, which resulted in “low” utilization of seasonal fabric.

From the data presented in Table 11 and Figure 13, three conclusions were drawn. First, it was observed that 32.6% of the operators reported that the marking and cutting processes were “inadequate”, which also resulted in a “high” amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process. Second, it was observed that 20.9% of the operators stated that the marking and cutting processes were “slightly adequate”, which resulted in a “regular” amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process. Third, it was observed that 16.3% of the operators stated that the marking and cutting processes were “adequate”, which resulted in a “low” amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process.

Inferential Analysis

Chi-square hypothesis testing was used for the inferential analysis to determine the impact of the marking and cutting processes on excess fabric.

RECOMMENDATIONS

The company is advised to prepare a proposal for improving the marking and cutting processes. This can be done by using the excess of high-quality fabric to increase the production of additional clothing items and accessories. The proposal should focus on ensuring the correct utilization of seasonal fabric and reducing the amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process.

The company should implement processes that cater to this new activity, cater to this new activity, while also ensuring the correct utilization of seasonal fabric. The company should also ensure that the materials are cut to appropriate measurements, to avoid excess waste. It is also important to provide adequate training to the personnel responsible for the marking and cutting processes. Additionally, the company must frequently look for ways to optimize processes and activities.

The company should consider presenting a proposal to enhance the marking and cutting processes by using high-quality excess fabric. This can be achieved by modernizing the cutting machines, which will help to reduce the amount of scrap material resulting from the cutting process during the production of additional clothing products and accessories. The modernization of cutting machines can help in achieving this goal. Additionally, it is suggested to work with formal suppliers to source quality products with the appropriate measurements and weight. Furthermore, the implementation of a control area can enable better management of the materials entering the cutting area.